Friday, March 11, 2016

Classic Straight Dough Method in Mini Zo. Buttermilk loaf. Классический безопарный способ в хлебопечке Мини Zojirushi

Buttermilk powder from KAF is quite different from our Canadian buttermilk powder. It is grainy (Canadian is smooth, fine powder) and much lower in fat content. The fragrance is the same - strong and milky, fresh buttermilky.

Since the only difference between buttermilk  and skim milk is the unique fat that buttermilk contains (buttermilk fat has high lecithin content), I have found that the buttermilk powder from KAF gives me breads noticeably different from those made with Canadian buttermilk powders with 7-8% M.F. in them. FYI, buttermilk powders range from 2% to 12% m.f. The higher its fat content, the more lecithin in buttermilk, the more buttermilk works as improver and emulsifier in dough, giving you the tenderest, softest breads, cakes, pancakes, quick breads and biscuits. So read the labels!

A typical loaf of buttermilk bread, made with Canadian 7-8% m.f. buttermilk powder (standard industrial quality, can be reconstituted, fermented into cultured buttermilk, etc). Source 1 from Ontario. Source 2 from Manitoba.
Typical outcome of baking the same loaf with the lowfat buttermilk powder from KAF. Source.

The loaves had softer crusts of paler or desaturated colors and they resembled breads made with milk, not with buttermilk.

Fortunately or unfortunately, I ordered two lbs of buttermilk powder from KAF and had to figure out how to use it.


The worst result I got when I added sourdough as an improver (15% of preferemented flour). It resulted in bucky dough and the loaf of small stature with torn crust, dense, rubbery crumb and overly acidic taste. The fragrance was excellent, though.





The best outcome I got when I made classic straight dough (3.5h total fermentation time). It resulted in excellent milk loaf. Nothing buttermilky, not a hint, but a superb, classy and elegant milk bread for eating straight or toasted.

(Un)fortunately, my husband devoured it, early riser, him, so I cannot show you how pretty it was, but he spared me a slice, so I can show the crumb structure.

The classic straight dough method from the beginning of the 20th century also repaired the problem with pale and soft rubbery crust that KAF's buttermilk was giving me.




Mini Zo doesn't offer a preprogrammed classical straight dough setting. Even the so called French setting has only 2h 50min of fermentation (and that is if including the 1.5hr long proof in calculation). However, one could use combination of Dough-French (set timer to 3.5h to avoid baking) to achieve total fermentation time of 4.5 h @28C. Or one could use Pasta Dough - French (temper yeast prior to using and set timer to 3.5h during French stage in order to avoid baking) to achieve the total fermentation time of 3.25h @28C. These methods would work for the simplest formulas, where all ingredients are introduced at once.

For enriched formulas, where fat and sugar is introduced halfway during fermentation, use Dough-Basic combo (set timer to 2:00-2:55 hrs, to avoid baking). This achieves 3.5-4.0 hrs fermentation time.

Since I wanted a baked loaf, not just a lump of great dough out of my bread machine, I used combination of Dough-Basic settings. I introduced fat and sugar later on, during punch down, because there is so little sugar in formula (2.5% f.w.), the yeast devours it immediately otherwise, and there is nothing left for taste or crust coloring later on. Late introduction of fat allows for better gluten development and ("flakier") crumb.

1) Plain basic dough, Dough Setting: flour, buttermilk powder, salt, yeast, water 20C. 20 min rest (tempering yeast in flour), 20 min mixing, 1h10min fermentation with one punch down.

2) Enriched final dough, shaping, proof, and baking, Basic Bread setting:

Add sugar and fat into bucket, refrigerate basic dough for 20 min, while machine rests prior to mixing.

Reinsert the bucket with dough, sugar and fat, and let the machine mix dough, ferment it and bake bread.







I usually spray risen loaf with water prior to baking. 2h5min fermenation (3h15min total fermentation time), 50 min proof, 50-60min bake.

I guess I would have to bake that loaf several times over, until all KAF buttermilk powder is used, so I will add the photos of loaves later. Right now, I will only repeat the image of its gorgeous crumb here! Man, oh man, I am so proud of this bread, wow...

Bread Formula form Washburn&Butt, 1999: 100 FiveRoses flour, 1.5-1.7 % salt, 0.63-0.69% fermipan instant yeast, 2.5% granulated sugar, 2.5% shortening, 8.8% buttermilk powder, 66-85% water. 

Proportions for Mini Zo (350g loaf): 205g Canadian APF or bread flour, 18g buttermilk powder, 1.4g bread machine yeasts (Fleishmann's), 3.4g salt, 5.1g sugar, 5.1g Crisco shortening plain or butter flavor, 175g water 20-30C. 

4 comments:

  1. Люда, доброго времени суток! Извините что не в тему. Я помню Ваш замечательный пост про караваи. Не могли бы Вы подсказать рецепт сдобного свадебного каравая!!!?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Оля, привет!

      Попробуйте каравай по ГОСту, очень вкусный. Маша показывала какой мякиш получается и как тесто для оформления приготовить
      http://lunetta-mama.livejournal.com/72115.html
      http://lunetta-mama.livejournal.com/71824.html

      Ну а примеры оформления для свадебных караваев - это уже в национальном стиле: у белорусов, украинцев и русских разные мотивы.
      https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/2c/78/19/2c78195ff15ce57985e0f00df47307d1.jpg

      Хорошие украинские короваи с рецептом оформительского теста и показами формовки и выпечки тут (девушка Люда - украинская канадка из Оттавы, в прошлом году вышла замуж, они с мамой испекли ей коровай на свадьбу и оттуда началось её увлечение :)
      https://modernyjkorovai.wordpress.com

      Delete
  2. Люда, здравствуйте! Извините, что не в тему, тоже.
    Прочитала этот блог до самого начала и увидела, что в самом первом посте вы пишите, что камень для духовки необязателен и подойдет аллюминевый противень. Каким образом он заменяет камень и есть ли нюансы при выборе или подойдет любой?
    Наташа.

    ReplyDelete
  3. Спасибо огромное!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    ReplyDelete